What equipment do you need for tracking? It depends on how you track the dog, but for the sake of completeness here goes -- collars, tracking flags, articles, a suitable harness, leashes, small resealable food containers, track markers. How you track your dog is a combination of what you find that works best for your dog, and how you feel most comfortable. Hopefully those two will coincide, but that isn't always the case.
Collars - A fur saver should be worn almost all the time, regardless of any other collar you may train with since it has to be used in trial. Some dogs track well with a prong on them, others (perhaps more sensitive to them) don't. More on prongs when we discuss two leash tracking, though some dogs will track just fine on prong only. And finally there is the e-collar, something I use in tracking and if applied properly is an excellent way to correct the dog. A longer discussion of e-collar use in tracking can be found here (insert link).
Tracking flags - Surveyors flags (available at Home Depot - 100 for about 7 bucks), make excellent start flags. They are easy for you to see and don't flap a lot in the wind. You can use almost anything you like, but these are one of the most popular forms and you will see them in all of Pax's videos where you see him at the start.
Articles - You don't need them at the beginning of your work, but I teach articles as a non-compulsive exercise and you can start the dog away from the track any time (even a little puppy). Please understand this does not mean the proofing of articles, which will most likely involve some degree of force - more on that in the section on teaching articles (link). So…what makes a good article? The most common are leather, wood and carpet, all holding scent quite well. Other items include rubber, metal and plastic. Wood golf tees and coins make excellent advanced articles. As with treats, I prefer darker colors for training.
Leashes - You will need a 10 meter leash for trial, so the sooner you get one the better. I love the new synthetics (Ramtech, and other names), and recommend them without reservation. They feel like leather, are lighter, can be put away wet, don't mold, don't stretch, don't jitter when wet and sliding through your hands (yes, you will be tracking in the rain). Other popular choices are Bevis, leather, cotton webbing, all of which are acceptable, but have drawbacks in my opinion. This is a matter of personal taste and all will work. You also will need a medium length (10-15 foot) and again I recommend the synthetic ones for the same reasons.
Harness/Bottcher - A tracking harness differs from an agitation harness in that it is open in the front, i.e., it has no breastplate, which can cause air flow restriction, especially in longer tracks. (photo) These harnesses do not have to be as heavy duty as an agitation harness, but must be sturdy nonetheless. Frabo makes an excellent one that I use with dogs who track in harness. This is not a necessary item, and one many people do not use. This is usually a handler preference. I like them because of the high leash connection (less foot tangling) and the fact that they place the pivot point toward the middle of the dog. Some handlers like a Bottcher, also known as a belly-band. This device cinches around the dog's waist and connects on the bottom (with a strap) to the collar. The lead is attached under the belly and usually comes out between the dog's rear legs. This set up exerts a downward force on the back of the dog's neck while he is tracking. (Stormy video)
Food containers - Small resealable plastic containers for holding treats and end of track rewards. These must have a very good seal, so spend a few extra cents and get the best you can find. Low profile is a must.
Track Markers - These are not the same as your starting flags, so please don't use start flags to mark tracks. I recommend barbeque skewers, the longer the better. (photo) With a piece of surveyors tape tied to them they will be used to mark articles, cross tracks, and track line. I use large washers, with surveyor tape tied to them to mark corners, when necessary. The use of markers is somewhat controversial and will be discussed in detail later.
